Remote even by Madagascar’s standards, the Ambohijanahary Special Reserve is the kind of place travel writers reach for the word “mysterious.” Few visitors make it here, but those who do find one of the island’s most biologically rich, and least disturbed, corners.
Overview
Straddling the Melaky and Menabe regions in Mahajanga province, Ambohijanahary spans 24,750 hectares of shifting terrain: sclerophyllous forest, open savannah, and sandy ground threaded with inlets and streams. That variety is exactly what allows so many different species to coexist here.
First protected in 1958, it was formally established as a reserve in 1993 with backing from the International Union for Conservation of Nature, in recognition of the vulnerable, endangered, and critically endangered species it shelters.
Part of the reserve sits at the western edge of the Bongolava mountain range, which helps regulate water levels in Madagascar’s highland rivers, including the Manambolo, which also runs through the Maningoza Reserve and Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park.
The climate here swings hard between extremes: dried-up riverbeds can fill and flow within days, particularly from November to March. Around the reserve’s fringes, members of the Sakalava and Makoa tribes farm rice and corn, raise zebu cattle, and keep bee colonies for honey.
Highlights
The Von der Decken’s sifaka
Among the reserve’s many lemur species, the Von der Decken’s sifaka stands out, partly because it’s diurnal, so you can actually see it during the day. Its black-and-white coat, brushed with gold and thicker around the belly, neck, and limbs, is often compared to a panda’s. They’re social animals, typically traveling in groups of up to ten.
Rare plants found nowhere else
More than 12,000 hectares of dense and open sclerophyllous forest make Ambohijanahary a refuge for plants that exist nowhere else on Earth, including Anthocleista madagascariensis and Brachylaena merana, both endemic, and both restricted to elevations above 1,000 meters. The slender Brachylaena merana holds particular value for locals, traditionally used for coffin-building, and its leaves boiled into a tonic for stomach and pulmonary ailments, or brewed as a tea to stimulate appetite.
Before You Go
Ambohijanahary is one of the most isolated reserves in Madagascar, and tourist infrastructure here is essentially nonexistent. There are no restrooms, viewing platforms, or rest areas, and trails remain in a raw, unmaintained state. If you’re prepared to go without comfort for a few days in exchange for access to some of the rarest wildlife on the planet, it’s worth the trip.
Things to Do
This is a destination built for serious trekkers who want nature in its rawest form.
Lemurs, and plenty of them
Around 11 mammal species live here, the majority of them lemurs. Beyond the Von der Decken’s sifaka, look for Gmelin’s woolly lemur and the crowned sifaka moving through the dense forest, alongside the lesser long-tailed shrew tenrec, the fossa (Madagascar’s largest carnivorous mammal), and the northern ring-tailed mongoose. Birders will find more than 57 species, plus 21 types of reptiles.
Ancient trees
The savannah and sclerophyll forest are dominated by Ocotea auriculiformis and Ocotea cymosa, trees whose lineage predates Madagascar’s human settlement before 700 CE. The Makoa and Sakalava still carve their fragrant wood into furniture and traditional coffins, and use it to flavor native dishes and drinks.
What to bring
Pack quick-dry polyester or nylon clothing, ideally with a taffeta or PVC coating, since the reserve sees rain even in the dry season. Bring a reliable rain jacket, gaiters to keep insects off your ankles, a hat, and strong sun protection, since parts of the savannah offer little shade at midday. Carry at least a liter of water per person per day; the humid air can mask dehydration even when you don’t feel thirsty.
Timing your visit by the day
Birds are most active and visible during daylight hours, typically near streams or foraging at the base of trees. The Von der Decken’s sifaka is the only lemur you’ll reliably see by day; for the rest, plan to explore in late afternoon, when groups forage together for fruit, seeds, and nuts.
Getting There
The most direct route is to travel to the city of Tsiroanomandidy, then arrange onward transport through your hotel or an Antananarivo-based tour operator. Ambohijanahary is far less accessible than most of Madagascar’s parks. Some describe it as one of the country’s most demanding destinations, but for serious nature lovers, the chance to see vulnerable and critically endangered species up close makes the effort worthwhile.
Where to Stay
There’s no tourist infrastructure in or near the reserve, and no accommodations in Tsiroanomandidy itself. The nearest options are in Antananarivo (Tana), Madagascar’s capital.
Central Hotel Tana
Centrally located within easy reach of landmarks like Gare de Soarano and the Pirate Museum of Antananarivo. This 4-star business hotel blends modern comforts (free WiFi, air conditioning) with Malagasy architectural touches, and its restaurant accommodates special diet requests.
Pro tip: Request a soundproofed room. The hotel’s central location means nearby restaurants and bars can get lively in the early evening.
- Tel: +261 20 22 222 44
- Address: Rue Andrianamihaja Raoul Tsaralana, Antananarivo 101, Madagascar
- Website: facebook.com/centralhoteltana/
Maison Lovasoa
“Lovasoa” means “precious heritage” in Malagasy, fitting, since this hotel occupies a former French colonial home. All 11 rooms mix high-speed internet with Malagasy furnishings, and despite its central location, set-back positioning keeps it quieter than nearby alternatives. Taxis and taxi-bé (Antananarivo’s tricycle-taxis) are available right outside, and the on-site restaurant, La Cuisine de Soa, serves Malagasy favorites.
- Tel: +261 34 07 807 71 or +261 34 93 520 65
- Address: Lot VE28 Bis Rue Razanakombana Ambohijatovo, Antananarivo 101, Madagascar
- Website: lamaison-lovasoa.com
- Email: maisonlovasoag@email.com