Few places in Madagascar are harder to reach, or harder to forget, than the Ambatovaky Special Reserve. Tucked between the Simianona and Marimbona rivers on the island’s northeastern tip, it has no roads, no lodges, and almost no visitors. What it does have is one of the densest concentrations of endangered birds and lemurs left on the planet.
Overview
Ambatovaky covers roughly 60,050 hectares of tropical rainforest in the Soanierana-Ivongo District, a patchwork of ridges, valleys, and forested hills threaded by two rivers. Thickets of sclerophyll vegetation break up the deciduous canopy, and the terrain shifts often enough that no two hours of hiking here look the same.
Conservationists consider it one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the country. It’s one of the only places on Earth where the Red-tailed Newtonia and the Madagascar kingfisher still breed, alongside the White-breasted Mesite, the Brown mesite, the Madagascar cuckoo-hawk, and the Madagascan serpent eagle, a raptor so rare it went unrecorded for nearly six decades.
The reserve is equally significant for lemurs. It shelters one of the last strongholds of the Perrier’s sifaka, listed as critically endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, along with red-bellied lemurs, black-and-white ruffed lemurs, and the indri (locally known as the babakoto).
Since its founding in 1958, Ambatovaky has become something of a living laboratory, home to 221 recorded plant species, 34 species of fish, and 113 species of amphibians and reptiles, all within a reserve that roughly 29,500 people, mostly of the Betsimisaraka tribe, still call the edge of home.
Highlights
The Birds and Lemurs
Ambatovaky exists largely because of what lives inside it. The Red-tailed Newtonia was presumed extinct until it turned up here in 1989, a rediscovery that startled ornithologists. The Madagascan serpent eagle, unseen since the 1930s, was later found nesting in the same forest.
The Perrier’s sifaka is rarer still: experts estimate only around 125 mature individuals remain in the reserve. With jet-black fur and a faint red-orange glow in its eyes, it’s one of the most striking, and mysterious, lemurs on the island. Its diet runs mostly to flowers, fruit, and leaves, but it’s occasionally seen eating dirt, likely to supplement minerals its plant diet doesn’t provide.
The Iampirano and Sandrangato Rivers
Two rivers, the Iampirano and the Sandrangato, cut through the reserve and sustain nearly everything in it. Together they hold 34 fish species and double as hunting and wading grounds for the reserve’s birds and mammals, including the striped civet and the cat-like fossa.
Recommended Activities
Ambatovaky ranks among the best hiking and birdwatching destinations in Madagascar, with one significant caveat. There are no roads in, and no lodges once you arrive. Visiting here means committing to a genuinely rough, multi-day expedition. If that doesn’t put you off, it’s worth every difficult mile.
Hike the reserve’s trails
The variety of terrain is what makes Ambatovaky such a rewarding hike. Slopes, descents, and ridgelines keep the trail interesting, and the scenery changes by the hour: sclerophyll thicket gives way to dense deciduous forest almost without warning.
Spot some of the world’s rarest wildlife
This is one of the only places left to see the Madagascan serpent eagle, the Perrier’s sifaka, the Madagascar cuckoo-hawk, and the indri in the wild. Keep an eye out, too, for the Madagascan friar and Mangoura swallowtail butterflies, both known for intricate, almost woven-looking wing patterns.
Important Reminders
Start early
Begin hiking between 8:00 and 8:30 a.m., when the forest is waking up and animal activity peaks. Expect birds feeding and lemurs socializing in the canopy, especially near the reserve’s denser thickets. Activity quiets through midday before picking back up in late afternoon, when you’ll still find birds wading in the Iampirano and Sandrangato.
What to wear
Unlike the spiny forests at Andohahela National Park and Tsimanampetsotsa National Park, Ambatovaky has no thorny undergrowth to worry about. Still, pack quick-drying nylon or polyester hiking gear, sturdy shoes with real traction for slippery or loose-rock sections, a rain jacket for sudden showers, and sun protection and bug repellent.
Best Time to Visit
Visit between April and October for drier, cooler conditions. Rain still falls, but it’s brief compared to the wet season. Local guides recommend the dry season for lemur sightings, when animals are more active and visible. For birdwatching, aim for November through March instead.
How to Get There
Ambatovaky is one of the most isolated reserves in Madagascar. There’s no direct road or access route, which is the main reason it sees so few visitors.
Route one
Travel from Toamasina to Soanierana-Ivongo by bus (about 3 hours 30 minutes) or taxi/private car (around 2 hours 45 minutes). From there, hire a boat on the Marimboana River to reach the village of Fotsialana, a trip of up to 4 hours depending on conditions, followed by a full day’s hike to the reserve entrance.
Route two
For a longer, more rugged approach, canoe or hike from Soanierana-Ivongo to the town of Ambodiriana (around 5 hours, longer in the wet season), then hike three days to reach the reserve.
Good to know
Entry costs 45,000 AR for adults and 25,000 AR for children. The reserve is open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., and all visitors must register at the gate before entering.
Where to Stay
Given how remote Ambatovaky is, there’s nowhere to stay near the reserve itself. The nearest accommodations are in the port city of Toamasina (also called Tamatave).
La Maison (Résidence Magali)
A longtime favorite for its blend of homey charm and modern comfort. Centrally located, with most of Toamasina’s main sights within walking distance. The on-site restaurant is known for fresh seafood, including breaded fish and calamari, and guests consistently praise the staff for warmth and attentive service.
- Tel: +261 32 05 643 60
- Address: 501 Rue Victor Hugo, Toamasina, Madagascar
- Website: facebook.com/lamaison501
- Email: lamaison@lamaison.com
Hotel H1
A solid budget option for travelers who don’t need modern décor to enjoy a restful stay. Hotel H1 trades style for simplicity and quiet, and sits close to the area’s beach resorts, restaurants, and the Toamasina Municipal Stadium.
- Tel: +261 20 53 316 03
- Address: 5 Rue Guynemer, Toamasina 501, Madagascar